Mid-Century Mother's Day

A serious homage to my mid-century mother and one of her favorite party dishes.

She made this with tinned crab back in that day, and she made it relentlessly, as if it were the only party dish she could ever know. I never understood this, because, day in and out, she was an excellent cook. Nonetheless, there is nothing that resonates more than her Salmon Newburg being carefully carried out in its Pyrex casserole dish, enjoying pride of place on her hand-embroidered table cloth.

I will be making the obvious New Depression alterations. But the truth is, without the crab, this is already a rather frugal dish, and I do believe that it had to do with her own early childhood years living through the Classic Depression. It was always difficult for her to spend money, even when she was more than comfortable, especially on expensive foodstuffs. But she did, always, keep a large pantry, filled to excess with every inexpensive food staple imaginable.

How well I now understand, and envy, her way and her wherewithal.

Salmon Newburg

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
dash of pepper
1 cup milk
1/2 cup half-and-half
1 can (16 ounces) salmon, undrained [yes, one can, and has, used tuna]
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon dry sherry [she always kept this at hand, as did I, when I was solvent and fancy-free]
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese [I am quite certain she did not use fresh]
rice, toast, split biscuits, or patty shells

Preparation:

In medium saucepan, melt butter over medium low heat; stir in flour to make a smooth paste. Stir in seasonings and gradually add milk and cream. Continue cooking and stirring until thickened; stir in salmon liquid. Stir about 1/2 cup of the hot mixture into the lightly beaten egg yolks, stirring quickly. Return liquid with egg yolks to the sauce mixture in the saucepan. Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring. Stir in sherry, Parmesan cheese, and flaked salmon. Heat and serve over rice, toast, biscuits, or in patty shells.

The obligatory variations: Add diced pimientos at the end [she did]. A small bit of tomato paste can also be included. If you wish to give it a bit of a faux Creole panache, add minced celery, green pepper and/or appropriate seasonings [yes, Old Bay, of course, but not too much as it quickly overwhelms].