Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Cultural Stereotypes Will Out



Yes, this is supposed to be my translation blog, but, as one can see in a far below post [just past the recipes], it has been meandering a bit.

Rather than whinging incessantly about the New Depression, the lack of work and the general sorry state of the industry, I am instead offering rather personal recipes meant to reference my own past and, most importantly, to be exceedingly cheap. Feeding soul, body and purse strings.

Colcannon, in its infinite variations, is the most basic of Irish foodstuffs that has allowed generations of Irishpersons to survive in all their endlessly cyclical dire straits. There are decades of my own life which have been similarly survived by way of this dish. Literally.
It could be side [but not of late], entrée, breakfast, salad. And, often, all of those through the course of one single day.

Paul Rankin’s Colcannon

750g Rooster Potatoes, peeled and cut into 5cm dice
75g Butter
150 ml water,
1/3 Savoy Cabbage, finely chopped [or the traditional green cabbage or kale]
3-4 Spring onions, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground white pepper,

Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for 6-7 minutes, or until tender, then drain and set aside.
Melt 50g of the butter with the water in a medium sized pan, and add the cabbage. Cook over a high heat until the cabbage is just cooked, and the water has almost evaporated.
Add the spring onions and cook until the mixture is just starting to fry.
Tip the cabbage into a bowl with the potatoes. Mash together with the remaining butter and season with salt and white pepper.

Rankin is a brilliant cook, and his substitution of Savoy cabbage is cunning alchemy, transforming the cabbage/kale dilemma in one deft swoop. His use of spring onions references Champ, another hardy standby [mashed potatoes, spring onions, milk…], which can be served hot or cold.

Variations:
Fry up a couple of rashers of bacon with the cabbage and onions, chop and add at the end.
Using chilled leftovers, form patties and sauté in butter till browned.
Flatten a portion and top with fried egg.

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